How to Pour a Concrete Driveway Entrance (The Right Way)

Why the Entrance Matters Most

The driveway entrance—also called the apron—takes more abuse than any other part of your driveway. Every vehicle crossing that section puts stress on both the concrete and the transition point to the street. Get this wrong and you'll see cracks within the first year.

Here's the deal: the entrance needs to be thicker, reinforced better, and graded precisely to avoid drainage problems. Most DIY driveway failures happen right at the apron because people treat it like the rest of the driveway.

Materials You Need

• Concrete: 4000 PSI minimum (not the cheap 3000 PSI bags)
• Gravel: 4 inches of compacted crushed stone (not pea gravel)
• Rebar: #4 bars on 18-inch centers, both directions
• Fiber mesh: Added to the mix for crack resistance
• Forms: 2x6 lumber for 5-inch pour, 2x8 for 6-inch
• Expansion joint material: 1/2-inch thick at street connection

Step-by-Step Process

1. Check Local Codes First

Most cities require permits for driveway aprons. The apron often sits in the public right-of-way, which means specific requirements for thickness, slope, and materials. Skip the permit and you'll tear it out later—or face fines.

2. Excavate Deep Enough

Dig 10-12 inches below final grade. That's 4 inches of gravel plus 5-6 inches of concrete plus a little extra for compaction. Excavate 6 inches wider than your forms on each side.

3. Set Your Grade

The apron needs to slope away from the street at 1/8 inch per foot minimum. Use a transit or laser level—eyeballing this leads to water pooling problems. The transition from street to apron should be smooth with no lip.

4. Compact the Subgrade

Rent a plate compactor. Make at least 3 passes over the entire area. Soft spots under the entrance will cause settling and cracking. If you find soft soil, dig it out and replace with compacted gravel.

5. Install Gravel Base

Spread 4 inches of crushed limestone or recycled concrete aggregate. Compact in 2-inch lifts. The gravel does two jobs: drainage and load distribution. Never pour directly on dirt.

6. Set Forms and Rebar

Stake your forms every 2 feet. Check level constantly. Place rebar on chairs 2 inches from the bottom—rebar sitting on gravel does nothing. Tie every intersection. Add an expansion joint where the apron meets the existing street.

7. Pour and Finish

Order concrete with fiber mesh added at the plant. Pour the entire apron in one session—cold joints are weak joints. Screed to level, then bull float. Wait for bleed water to disappear before finishing. Broom finish perpendicular to traffic direction for traction.

8. Cure Properly

Apply curing compound immediately after finishing. Keep the concrete moist for 7 days—cover with plastic if needed. Do NOT drive on it for at least 5 days, preferably 7. Full strength takes 28 days.

Cost Breakdown

Item	DIY Cost	Pro Cost
Concrete (per yard)	$140-170	Included
Gravel base	$50-100	Included
Rebar & mesh	$75-150	Included
Form lumber	$50-80	Included
Equipment rental	$100-200	Included
Total (200 sq ft)	$600-900	$1,600-3,000

Is DIY Worth It?

Honestly? For a driveway entrance, I'd lean toward hiring a pro. The apron is small enough that labor costs aren't massive, but the stakes are high. A botched apron means tearing out concrete that connects to the street—not a simple fix. If you've poured concrete before and have help, go for it. First-timers should practice on a shed pad first.

Common Mistakes

• Pouring too thin: 3 inches cracks under vehicle weight. Period.
• Skipping the gravel: Concrete on clay soil heaves and settles.
• Wrong slope: Water pooling at the street causes ice problems and erosion.
• No expansion joint: Without it, the apron cracks where it meets the street.
• Driving too soon: Concrete needs time. Rushing this guarantees surface damage.

When Should I Replace My Driveway Entrance?

If you see cracks wider than 1/4 inch, significant settling, or chunks breaking off at the edges, it's replacement time. Patching an apron rarely lasts—the repairs fail faster than the original because they don't bond well to old concrete.

Can I Pour a New Entrance Over the Old One?

No. Overlays on driveways don't work. The old concrete will crack and the overlay will follow. Remove the old concrete completely before pouring new.

How Long Does a Concrete Entrance Last?

A properly built driveway entrance lasts 25-30 years. With sealing every 2-3 years and no heavy truck traffic, 40 years isn't unrealistic. Cheap work fails in 5-10 years.

Do I Need a Permit?

Almost always yes. The apron typically sits partly in the public right-of-way. Check with your city building department before starting. Permit fees usually run $50-150.

What About Stamped or Decorative Concrete?

You can do it, but expect to pay 50-100% more than plain concrete. On an apron that takes heavy vehicle traffic, stamped concrete requires extra sealing to protect the texture from tire wear.

Key Takeaways

• Build the apron 4-6 inches thick—thicker than the rest of your driveway
• Use 4000 PSI concrete minimum with fiber mesh
• Install #4 rebar on 18-inch centers, both directions
• Compact a 4-inch gravel base before pouring
• Add expansion joints at the street connection
• Wait 5-7 days before driving on new concrete
• Get a permit—this is non-negotiable in most areas

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